Thinking about Italian-American Food

Parm's interior

This week, the NY Times reviewed Parm, the new lunchy offshoot of Torisi Italian Specialties (itself a very interesting and widely-adored cultural mash-up of Lower East Side immigrant food traditions: think Jewish pickles, Chinese dried scallops and durian finding their way into classic red-sauce Italian-American dishes.)

As the name implies, Parm tries to resurrect and elevate declasse Italian-American foods. (Who said a meatball parm sandwich can’t be made into a bourgeois status item?) Pete Wells (the reviewer) has some fun pointing out the malleablity of meanings surrounding this oft-overlooked cuisine.

Fried Calamari, Cantonese style (from Torisi): with fried hot peppers

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1 Comment

  1. Prior to Torrisi’s shift to the prix-fixe menu I lunched there, the sandwiches, were fabulous and ridiculously mouthwatering, along with savory sides of roasted brussel sprouts and some concotion of roasted potatoes that was over the top..I anticipate only greatness from Parm.

    Thank you for reminding me that I still need to try this spot! It’s so hard to keep up!

    Reply

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